Hoo boy, today’s post promised murder, mystery, INTRIGUE! Kidding — it’s actually all about a satisfying DIY: ten test pots of paint, a pile of lattice, and a step-by-step build that turned a plain wall into a colorful, textured focal point in our son’s room. Here’s exactly how we created this wood strip gradient wall treatment.
When you last saw this room, we had installed an upholstered headboard and built-in bookshelf, which made the space cozier and more functional. We always planned to add more color and personality over time, especially to the tall wall at the foot of the bed — the vaulted ceilings push that wall up over nine feet high, which made it perfect for something bold.
After adding a large colorful mural to our daughter’s tall wall, our son wanted something equally fun in his room. We wanted the result to feel cheerful and interesting but not overly heavy. Rather than wide planks or shiplap, we landed on thin horizontal planks made from primed lattice molding — 1.5″ wide strips that give subtle texture without competing with the scale of the ceiling planks.
We considered wallpaper, decals, beadboard, and wainscoting, but chose thin lattice to create a refined linear look. Using many narrow strips (we used 60 total) made the gradient subtle and modern — more of an abstract, linear sunset than a busy striped wall.
Choosing the Colors
For the palette we wanted something that nodded to a beach sunset: blues, greens, yellows, and oranges. Our son helped pick favorites from the paint deck — he argued for a few specific shades and even made small, persuasive cases for things like Jersey Cream (a nod to family), Sweet Orange, and Sumptuous Peach.
We narrowed it to ten colors and used a digital mock-up to test how randomized stripes in an imperfect gradient would read across the tall wall. That helped us plan quantities and cuts so we wouldn’t buy more wood or paint than necessary. The final lineup of colors (all Sherwin‑Williams) included Sumptuous Peach, Sweet Orange, Jersey Cream, Rice Paddy, Celery, Liveable Green, Waterscape, Comfort Gray, Vintage Vessel, and Raindrop. The combination created an “ocean-at-dusk meets modern rainbow” feeling.
Painting & Prep
We chose primed lattice molding because it’s thin (about 1/4″ thick) yet keeps some wood texture when painted, and its 1.5″ width allowed us to use many strips for a finer gradient. First we cut the lattice roughly to three different lengths to fit around the built-in bookcase and closet door, leaving pieces a bit long to accommodate imperfect walls. You can always trim as you install.
Painting dozens of small pieces meant a practical, low-tech approach: foam rollers over a drop cloth. With limited space we painted in batches, and even our six-year-old got involved — a great way to make kids feel invested in their room. We painted in two batches and let everything dry thoroughly between coats.
Installing the Painted Wood Strips
Before nailing anything, we located studs and drew light vertical pencil guide lines with a level. Securing the strips into studs with finish nails gives a stronger hold than nailing only into drywall. We started with a full strip across the top of the bookshelf to ensure a clean, full-width piece there, then worked both up and down from that point. If you don’t have an obstruction like a bookcase, it’s common to start at the baseboard and work upward.
We used short scrap pieces of lattice as spacers between each board to create a consistent gap — big enough to notice, but subtle overall. The lattice is only 1/4″ thick, so the dimension reads delicately when you step back. Using spacers keeps spacing uniform and gives a slightly bolded horizontal beadboard effect without too much bulk.
Installing the middle-length strips first and then working toward the top and bottom made the layout manageable. We kept a printed mock-up handy to follow the color order, though we still managed one wrong-start color and corrected it quickly. Around obstacles such as vents, we removed the cover, measured and cut pieces to fit, and then reinstalled the vent cover for a seamless finish.
Finishing Touches
The cutting, painting, and installing took about two hours over two days — the two-day stretch was mostly paint-drying time. The finishing work was the most time-consuming but also the most rewarding: filling nail holes, sanding smooth, and touching up paint. We used spackle and a small putty knife to fill holes, sanded them the next day, and then used the same foam rollers (stored in plastic bags between uses) to touch up the tiny spackle dots. That hour-long polishing step made a huge difference in the final, refined appearance.
The finished wall is cheerful and cozy — the first thing our son sees in the morning and the last thing at night. We may add artwork or a shelf later, but for now we’re enjoying how much brighter the whole room feels. The raised strips give a dimension that painting alone wouldn’t achieve; it’s subtle in photos but very tactile in person.
We also swapped the artwork above his bed for a brighter painting that fits the new palette. Our son calls it “his jellyfish,” and it brings a playful, personal touch to the room.
So that’s how ten test pots and a lot of lattice came together to make a linear abstract “sunset” — or as I jokingly call it, a “son-set.” The whole job is approachable: pick a palette, buy primed lattice, cut to size, paint the strips, install with consistent spacing, and finish by filling and touching up nail holes. The added depth from raised strips is what makes this treatment feel polished and tactile, and it’s a repeatable technique for other rooms if you want a colorful, textured focal wall.
If you try something similar, plan your color layout in advance to reduce waste, use spacers for consistent gaps, and take the time to spackle and sand — that final step is worth it for a clean, finished look.
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