Who wants to refinish a table? You? Great — we refinished two dining tables using elbow grease, zero chemical strippers, and a lot of sanding. It’s proof that an old thrifted or hand‑me‑down piece can be refreshed without a huge budget or complicated products.
Why Refinish A Table?
We needed two dining tables for our duplex rental because each side has its own dining area. One was a hand‑me‑down Crate & Barrel table we’d received from a friend. At the time she warned us the cherry finish was scratched and needed work, but life happened and we never got around to it.
The second table was my sister’s old farmhouse table. We bought it before she listed it online. It was worn from years of use, but the size and solid feel were perfect for the space.
Both tables were ideal candidates for refinishing because they were solid wood. If a surface is laminate or veneer you need a different approach. Since both tops were already beaten up, we weren’t nervous about putting a sander to them.
Tools to Refinish a Table
We like to avoid harsh chemicals when possible. For this method you’ll need:
- Electric sander — a corded random orbital or a battery‑operated palm sander
- Coarse (80‑grit) and medium/fine (120‑grit) sandpaper
- Paper towels or a tack cloth
- Shop vacuum (optional)
- Stain‑grade paintbrushes
- Rags
- Wood stain in colors you like (we used a warm walnut and a cool gray)
- Water‑based polyurethane sealer (we used a thicker “triple thick” variety)
- Mask and nitrile gloves for protection
Those last two help keep you safe and clean while you work.
Step 1: Sand a Test Spot
We were cautious about sanding the Crate & Barrel table, so we first removed and sanded the top of one leg as a discreet test. That let us see how deep the stain penetrated and what the underlying wood looked like without risking the table top. The test spot looked great, which gave us the green light to continue.
Step 2: Sand Off the Old Finish
After the test spot, we sanded all surfaces with coarse 80‑grit paper, working in small sections and moving with the grain. Our battery sander worked but was slow, so we upgraded to a corded random orbital sander. The additional power made sanding faster and produced a cleaner, more even result.
The orbital sander especially helped remove the factory finish on the Crate & Barrel table and revealed surprising wood grain beneath the dark red stain.
Step 3: Smooth Out Scratches & Dents
The heavier sander was invaluable for smoothing deep scratches and gouges on the farmhouse table. Working carefully, we could blend the damaged areas into the surrounding wood and create a consistent surface before finer sanding.
Sanding both tables, including legs and aprons, took roughly two to three hours with the right equipment.
Step 4: Finish Sanding with Fine Grit Paper
Once the old finish is stripped, give the entire table a once‑over with finer 120‑grit paper to smooth the surface and prep it for stain or sealer. This step is especially useful on the tabletop itself.
Step 5: Clean Off Your Sanding Dust
Remove all sanding dust before applying stain or sealer. We worked outside and used a leaf blower to clear most of the dust, then wiped surfaces with a damp paper towel and a tack cloth. A shop vacuum works well for this step indoors.
Step 6: Apply Your Stain and/or Sealer
We transported the tables to the duplex and finished them in place so we could see how the colors read in the rooms. For the farmhouse table we tested a clear sealer first because we liked the raw look. One coat of a basic water‑based sealer deepened the wood slightly and kept the grain visible. For extra protection we applied a second coat of a thicker water‑based “triple thick” sealer for a durable satin finish.
Here’s what the farmhouse tabletop looked like before refinishing:
The clear finish kept the table looking natural while adding protection and a satin sheen that ties nicely with the surrounding woodwork in the space.
Step 7: Don’t Be Afraid to Layer Stains
The Crate & Barrel table still showed red undertones after the clear sealer, which wasn’t the look we wanted. We started with a walnut stain but it read warmer than we hoped once dry. To cool the tone, we applied a very light coat of a gray stain over the walnut and wiped it off immediately so it wouldn’t sink in and turn fully gray. The layered approach let the wood’s variation show through while neutralizing the red.
After the layered stains dried, we sealed the tabletop with two coats of the same water‑based “triple thick” sealer used on the farmhouse table. The result retained wood character while achieving a cooler, more neutral brown tone.
For reference, this is how the red Crate & Barrel table looked before refinishing:
On the other side of the duplex we paired the lighter farmhouse table with white dining chairs and a mixed‑finish globe light. Between the two rooms we used old and new pieces to create balanced, lived‑in spaces.
We didn’t know exactly what to expect when we started these projects, but we’re thrilled with how both tables turned out. Aside from a new sander, sealer, and stain — and the great deal we got on my sister’s table — the cost was far less than buying two new dining tables.
Alternate: How to Paint Furniture
If refinishing doesn’t give you the look you want, painting is a great alternative. Painting works well on solid wood and, with the right prep and products, can also be used on laminate or veneer. Painting lets you change color and style without replacing the whole piece.
P.S. For more furniture makeovers and DIY projects, explore a furniture upgrades category for inspiration.
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