When we last updated you about the kitchen floors, they already looked close to finished. But on closer inspection there were still a few final touches needed: shoe molding to cover the intentional expansion gaps around the room, and several coats of sealant to protect the seams and add durability.
Installing shoe molding is a simple but important step: it hides the gap at the edge of the floor, covers nail holes and seams, and gives the room a polished look. We also used caulk on all seams and corners and painted the trim to make everything crisp and consistent.
One wrinkle early in the process was our initial plan to reuse the original shoe molding. We had saved and carefully labeled every piece when we removed it, thinking reuse would save time. Once we tried a few painted pieces back in place, though, the finish looked scrappy. The paint edges weren’t sharp, and with such a high contrast between the white trim and the dark floor it would have stood out. So we decided to install all new shoe molding. Since we had to buy new trim for around the peninsula anyway, buying enough to do the whole room made sense. The total cost for the new shoe molding came to about $35 — a small price for a clean, like-new finish.
Without a pneumatic nail gun we installed the trim the old-fashioned way. After cutting each piece, we started the nails by tapping them into a scrap of wood so they were partially driven in, which minimized impact on the new floor. We always placed a piece of cardboard under the work area to avoid scuffs. Once the nail was in far enough with a hammer, we used a manual nail punch to sink the head just below the trim surface; this method avoids leaving hammer marks on the molding.
The most noticeable improvement was around the peninsula, where there had previously been neither baseboard nor shoe molding. Adding baseboard and then cutting and installing the shoe molding around that area made the whole feature look finished. We still plan to add a wood cover over the metal brackets along the back of the peninsula someday, but with stools in place the brackets are unobtrusive.
After nailing the shoe molding in, we ran a bead of caulk along all seams and corners to create a smooth, finished transition. We smooth the caulk with a finger dipped in warm water to keep it neat and prevent it from sticking to our hands. Once the caulk dries, we paint any necessary spots and let everything cure before moving on to sealing the cork.
Although our cork planks arrived pre-sealed on the surface, most flooring manufacturers and installers recommend applying three additional coats of water-based polyurethane to seal the seams and protect the floor. This extra sealing helps keep dust and dirt out of the cracks and increases long-term durability.
We called Lumber Liquidators, where we purchased the cork, and spoke with an installer who regularly installs the Lisbon Cork product. He advised: hand-sand lightly with 100–150 grit paper, apply a coat of water-based poly with a 3/8″ nap roller, let it dry (about four hours), then repeat sanding and coating two more times.
We tested those steps on scrap planks before committing to the whole floor. Sanding as recommended left visible swirl scratches on the sample; even after poly they remained noticeable. Sanding in straight lines produced a different but still unattractive scraped appearance. So we decided to skip sanding on the actual floor and test applying poly to an un-sanded sample. The finish applied smoothly and the cork’s color popped without showing scratches, so we proceeded without sanding.
Following the installer’s roller recommendation at first produced an unexpected purple-blue haze on the sample. That thick, textured nap left a haze that looked wrong to our eyes, so we wiped it off and switched to ultra-smooth small foam rollers—the same type we use for applying water-based poly on furniture. The foam rollers laid down thin, even coats without the color haze. Since thin, even coats adhere and cure better than thick ones, this approach made sense and gave a much more pleasing result.
We applied three thin coats, one each on Friday, Saturday, and Sunday evenings, allowing the recommended dry time between coats. The water-based poly we used had minimal odor and dried within the four-hour window listed on the label. After sealing, small spills wiped up easily and there have been no visible marks from everyday use or from a dropped plate (the cork cushioned the impact). Even Burger’s paws haven’t left any marks so far.
The last piece of the finish was installing transition reducers at the doorways where the kitchen floor meets adjacent rooms. Our cork sits about a half-inch higher due to an existing asbestos liner under the original vinyl, so reducers were needed in each doorway. The installer suggested oak transitions because cork edges can get dinged; we found suitable options at a lower cost and installed them after measuring, cutting, and nailing. Two longer reducers were on special order, so the transitions are mostly complete.
With shoe molding, caulk, paint touch-ups, three coats of poly, and transitions in place, the kitchen floor looks finished and durable. The cork’s warm color helps the room feel cozy, and later when we stain the adjoining hardwoods darker the overall flow will improve even more. This project was the last big step in the kitchen, so next we’ll share final photos along with a full budget and timeline for the remodel.
How did your weekend go? Any trim or floor sealing projects on your list?