Years ago we said we’d share the DIY steps for this shiplap-style paneled wall because it’s incredibly simple and very budget friendly. To put it in perspective, the entire project cost less than two boxes of light bulbs or a casual dinner out. In short: it cost only $31 for one side.
In an earlier post about our backsplash choices, we explained that we used a different treatment on the stove wall in each duplex kitchen to avoid overwhelming the space with pattern. We wanted something subtle, wipeable and low-maintenance. It also had to be cheap and fast since we were exhausted after a long stretch of renovations: we had tiled multiple rooms, installed two kitchens, and hung two wall murals. This simple planked wall was the perfect solution.
Call it planking, horizontal paneling, or faux shiplap — real shiplap interlocks — the method is the same: thin plywood or underlayment cut into planks, nailed to the wall with small spacers between boards, then painted with a durable semi-gloss. We color-matched the paint to the cabinets so the treatment blends in. The kitchens were rented many times over the summer and the walls have proven durable and easy to clean, much like beadboard backsplashes. They still look like new.
The cost savings come from cutting your own boards instead of buying pre-made shiplap panels sold at big-box stores. We used 5mm underlayment and cut it into strips ourselves. That dropped the material cost to less than $2 per 8-foot equivalent, compared with $5–$6 for pre-made boards. For our two kitchens the underlayment cost was about $22.50 per kitchen instead of $60–$75, saving roughly $100 overall.
Cutting your own boards takes a bit more time and effort. If you prefer a faster route and don’t mind the extra cost, pre-made panels are usually pre-primed and spaced and will speed up the installation. Inspired by a budget shiplap approach we read about, we tried the 5mm underlayment and liked the subtle woodgrain texture it provided. It was durable and easy to finish, so here’s how we did it.
Materials
We already had most of the tools and supplies except for the underlayment and paint, so both kitchens cost us about $62 for materials. If you don’t own the tools listed below you may need to buy or rent a few, but they’re useful for many home projects and worth keeping on hand if you plan to DIY more.
Note: If you have a gas stove, check local code requirements. Some areas require metal protection over wood or beadboard behind gas ranges. Our kitchens use electric stoves, so that wasn’t an issue.
We used:
- 4 x 8′ panels of 5mm underlayment (about $15 per panel). We used three panels for both kitchens and got eight strips from each panel.
- Primer (a quart is usually enough)
- Semi-gloss paint, color-matched to the cabinets
- Wood filler
- Caulk suitable for kitchens
- Paint brush and small foam rollers
- Small spackle knife
- Nail gun and brad nails (1.75″ brads)
- Table saw or shop cutting service to rip panels into strips
- Miter saw or hand saw to trim strips to length
- Jig saw for outlet and switch holes
- Drill and 1/2″ drill bit (for starter holes when cutting out outlets)
- Sanding block
- Stud finder, level and pencil
Cut Your Boards to Size
The underlayment arrives as full 4 x 8′ sheets. We had the store cut the panels into manageable widths to fit in the car, then finished ripping them into the final plank width at home on a table saw. Aim for slightly less than 6″ wide when cutting — we used 5 7/8″ strips — since the saw blade removes a bit of material and trying to make exact 6″ widths can leave the last piece short.
If the store can cut your strips to final width you can skip the table saw. You will still need a miter saw or hand saw to trim each strip to length to fit your wall. After cutting, sand the edges lightly to remove any splinters.
Prep Your Wall
Start by removing outlet covers and switch plates. Use a stud finder to locate studs so you can fasten boards securely. We marked stud locations with a long level to create vertical guide lines that we could reference as we installed the planks.
Cut Holes for Outlets and Switches
Measure and mark the location of each outlet or switch on the back of the plank. Hold the board in place, mark left-to-right and use a scrap to determine the correct top-to-bottom offset. Transfer those marks to the plank and draw the cut outline. For internal cuts use a 1/2″ drill bit to create starter holes at corners, then cut the opening with a jig saw.
Nail Your Boards to the Wall
Reinstall the outlets temporarily and start installing boards from the bottom up. Use small spacers such as tile spacers between each board to maintain even gaps — pennies or other small objects work too. We nailed our boards to studs using a cordless nail gun with 1.75″ brad nails. In humid environments you might choose to use construction adhesive in addition to nails to prevent any movement, but we avoided adhesive because we didn’t want to damage drywall if we later removed the planks.
If the wall has cabinets or a hood in place, fitting around them takes a bit more trimming, so installing the planks before hanging large fixtures can save time. We completed both kitchen backsplashes over a weekend.
Prime, Patch, and Paint
After installation the raw panels look nice on their own, but we wanted a wipeable finish. Start by priming the entire surface with a brush to get primer into the gaps, then roll the wall with a small foam roller. Once the primer dries you can clearly see nail holes and any knots that need attention. Fill nail holes and imperfections with wood filler that sands smooth. After sanding, apply a second coat of primer if needed, then finish with semi-gloss paint in your chosen color.
After painting, caulk the edges where the planks meet the countertop, cabinets, and any trim for a clean, finished look. Because we primed the boards first we only needed one coat of topcoat paint. The result is a durable, wipeable surface that blends into the kitchen and minimizes visual noise so the tile and brick elements can shine.
We repeated the entire process on the opposite side of the duplex, so while the work wasn’t lightning-fast it was straightforward and affordable. Both sides were finished in a weekend and have held up well.
This treatment was exactly what the kitchen needed: simple, budget-friendly, and durable. It’s a great option if you want the shiplap look without breaking the bank or committing to heavy construction.
If you enjoy affordable DIY projects, consider these other popular ideas from our archives: a low-cost board and batten, easy landscape lighting, adding crown molding to cabinets or rooms, installing a kitchen backsplash on a budget, updating a laundry room with tile, refinishing a dining table, quick curtain-rod installation, or installing under-cabinet lighting. These projects are approachable and cost-effective for most homeowners.
P.S. Many more projects and updates are available in our Home Improvement category.
*This post originally referenced products and examples for illustration.*