Updated January 2022
Do your kitchen cabinets feel unfinished or leave an awkward gap under the ceiling? Installing crown molding across the tops of upper cabinets is a simple and affordable way to give them a polished, custom look. We added crown molding to our own kitchen in about three hours, and the result transformed the room—here’s how we did it.
Why We Added Crown Molding To Our Kitchen Cabinets
When we completed our kitchen renovation last year we initially left off crown molding for a clean, modern square-edge look and because we’d never installed crown before. After learning how to install crown on a ceiling, we decided the cabinets could benefit from a bit more formality and finished detail. Adding molding softened the transition to the ceiling and elevated the room without a major remodel.
The change is subtle but effective: crown molding frames the cabinets and gives the kitchen a more intentional, traditional feel.
Steps For Adding Cabinet Crown Molding
This is a straightforward project you can complete in a day. The basic workflow is:
- Attach a scrap wood ledger along the top of the cabinets to provide solid nailing surface
- Measure and cut the crown molding pieces
- Nail the molding to the ledger
- Caulk and paint for a finished look
Tools & Materials Needed
Gathering the right tools makes the job faster and produces cleaner results. Suggested items:
- Crown molding (primed or prefinished to match your cabinets)
- Measuring tape and pencil
- Nail gun (a cordless model that doesn’t require an air compressor is convenient)
- Wood glue
- A device to hold crown at cutting angle (a Crown Pro-style jig helps)
- Miter saw for accurate angled cuts
- 1×2 scrap wood or pine to build a ledger along the cabinet tops
- Paintable caulk
- Paint and short-handled brush
- Painter’s tape
If your cabinets are stained wood, source molding that matches the stain and grain; cabinet manufacturers often sell coordinating trim.
Step 1: Measure Your Cabinets
Measure the total linear length of the cabinet run and each wall section individually. Buy a little extra material; because crown molding is cut on a bias, each piece requires slightly more length than the visible span. Measure twice before cutting to avoid waste.
Step 2: Attach Scrap Wood Around The Top
We attached a 1×2 scrap wood ledger along the top edge of each upper cabinet using wood glue and an old nail gun. The ledger gives the crown molding a solid surface to fasten to because cabinet door frames often leave little room above the boxes. Since the ledger will be concealed by the molding, appearance isn’t critical—just ensure it runs continuously around the cabinet perimeter and is securely fastened.
Step 3: Cut Your Crown Molding
Cutting crown follows the same principles whether you’re installing it at the ceiling or on cabinets. Mark each piece carefully, set your miter saw to the correct angle, and cut with the molding held at the proper spring angle—using a jig that supports the molding simplifies this process. Always measure twice, then cut once, and test-fit pieces before final nailing.
Using a miter saw and a Crown Pro-style holder produces consistently accurate 45-degree and coping cuts for inside and outside corners. Practice on scrap pieces if you’re new to crown profiles.
How to cut crown molding
If you prefer a visual guide, look for a step-by-step crown molding tutorial that demonstrates measuring, mitering, and coping. The same cutting concepts apply to cabinet-top installations as to ceiling installations.
Step 4: Nail The Crown Molding Into Place
Once each piece is cut and dry-fit, attach the molding to the ledger with a nail gun. Space the fasteners a few inches apart, angling nails into the ledger rather than the cabinet face. For outside corners that are fragile, apply a bead of wood glue between mating edges and hold them tightly while the adhesive cures. Painter’s tape can hold the joint together while the glue dries to avoid splitting the molding with fasteners.
Another option is to position a small scrap block behind an outside corner and fasten both adjoining molding pieces into that block for added strength.
Step 5: Caulk & Paint Your Crown Molding
After installation, fill seams and nail holes with paintable caulk or wood filler. We prefer a fast-drying acrylic latex caulk that accepts paint within an hour. After caulking, lightly smooth joints, wait for the caulk to set, then paint the molding in the same cabinet color or a complementary shade. Since our molding was primed white and matched the cabinets, one coat was sufficient; darker or unprimed molding may require two coats.
Once the paint is dry, the job is complete and the cabinets look built-in and refined.
How Much Did It Cost?
This project is budget-friendly. We purchased three 8-foot pieces of crown molding and spent roughly $35 total. Material costs will vary by profile and finish, but adding crown to cabinets is an economical way to make a high-impact upgrade.
The molding shifted our kitchen’s aesthetic from modern to a more traditional, stately look without a major renovation—one of those small projects that makes a big visual difference.
More DIY Molding Projects
If you enjoyed this upgrade, consider other trim projects that add architectural interest: board-and-batten walls, built-in bookshelf crown, beefier crown created from baseboards, or adding trim to make base cabinets look built-in. These projects similarly enhance a room’s character with modest time and expense.
More DIY Kitchen Cabinetry Projects
Other cabinet updates to consider: properly painting wood cabinets, installing hidden hinges, removing upper cabinets for an open look, darkening stained cabinets without sanding, or refinishing Ikea kitchen cabinets. Each project can update the look and function of your kitchen in a weekend or two.
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