How to Prime Wood Paneling for a Smooth Finish

And now for the paneling update. Hold on to your hats—this post is a wild ride.

We’ve painted paneling before, so tearing it out wasn’t high on our list. Removing the paneling here would mean taking down and rehanging all the cabinets, and with old plaster behind them that felt like opening a can of worms. Drywalling over the paneling would also add cost and complexity because we’d have to work around the cabinets. So we decided to paint the paneling again, like we did in our former den. That transformation took a long time—over several years—but it became one of our favorite rooms.

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We never regretted painting the paneling. The grooves remain visible and provide subtle texture that we like. If you prefer a smooth finish, you can fill or caulk the grooves, or remove the paneling entirely.

This time we took a different approach: we tried to prime and paint using low- or no-VOC products. We wanted to reduce fumes because we work with paint frequently and now have a baby in the house. Oil-based stain-blocking primer is the professional go-to for preventing wood-bleed—the orange-brown tannins that can seep through paint—but it’s higher in VOCs. Choosing the low-VOC route was a deliberate tradeoff for indoor air quality, and it ended up working—though it took much more time than we expected. Here’s how it went.

First, here’s what the kitchen looked like before we started priming and painting the paneling.

Step 1: We wiped down the paneling, beams, and trim with a moist cloth. Some people use TSP to remove grease and grime, but we didn’t this time. We also skipped sanding; if your paneling is very glossy, splintery, or rough, sanding would be a good idea.

Step 2: We removed vent covers and outlet plates because we planned to replace them—switching from bisque to fresh white.

Step 3: We spent about three hours applying an initial coat of Olympic No-VOC primer across the trim, beams, and paneled walls.

The primer often looks uneven and rough, which is normal, but we started seeing bleed-through almost immediately: orangey-brown stains pushing through the primer in several spots. Not good.

Step 4: After a short dry time we tried a second coat of the same primer on the obvious bleed spots. That didn’t stop it.

Step 5: We found a can of Behr Primer + Paint (white semi-gloss, low-VOC and rather thick) and applied it to everything—trim, beams, and walls. Coverage improved but some bleed-through remained.

Step 6: Back at Home Depot we picked up Kilz Clean Start No-VOC primer, labeled as a stainblocker, and applied it as another full coat throughout the room.

That did the trick. The staining stopped and everything finally looked primed correctly. Relief at last.

Step 7: We painted the trim and beams with the Behr white semi-gloss. Leaving primer exposed long-term attracts dust because primer is slightly tacky, so painting those surfaces right away keeps them clean and makes the finish easy to wipe. The Behr paint covered nicely over the Kilz primed surfaces and gave a glossy, durable finish.

Step 8: We removed the painter’s tape while the last coat was still slightly wet to achieve the cleanest lines. Waiting until paint is fully dry can cause peeling when tape is removed. Where tape stuck to wet paint we used an X-Acto knife to score along the edge so the paint wouldn’t lift.

We usually avoid extensive use of tape and prefer a short-handled edging brush for control, but because I’m short and working on a stool I used tape around the ceiling trim and baseboards to speed things up. Freehanding around door frames and the fireplace felt fine.

About 48 hours into the priming effort, the room finally looked like a proper canvas ready for paint. The trim appears whiter because it’s finished in semi-gloss; primer alone tends to be creamier and less bright.

We can’t say for sure whether the Kilz Clean Start No-VOC primer would have worked on its own without the previous coats layered beneath it, but it did stop the bleed after being applied over our earlier primers. If you want to avoid oil-based primers, we’d recommend 2–3 coats of Kilz Clean Start No-VOC primer followed by two thin, even coats of latex paint. If you prefer the traditional method, one coat of oil-based stain-blocking primer followed by two thin coats of latex paint is still a reliable route.

Going low/no-VOC likely won’t be a one-afternoon project—our priming stage took two days, even with babysitting help. It was a slog, but worth it once the orange bleed was gone and the walls looked clean and bright. In rare cases bleed can reappear weeks or months later, so we’ll keep an eye out and report back if anything changes. We used a similar no-VOC approach on the living room trim five months ago with no issues so far, which is encouraging.

If anyone has tried painting paneling without VOCs or been forced to apply multiple coats of primer or paint, we feel your pain. Share your experiences—commiseration is welcome.

Psst—read more about the whole Phase 1 kitchen plan in our earlier post.