Although we could have learned to embrace the “unfinished chic” look of our exposed hood, we were ready to build a cover. For the hood height we followed the manufacturer’s recommendations: JennAir suggested a range, and we installed the hood 34″ above the countertop—right in the middle of that recommendation.
To design the cover, we started with Photoshop mockups to compare two different styles. Our original concept copied elements from many of the hoods in our inspiration photos, with square panels on the front created from trim.
That first version felt a bit top-heavy, so we created a cleaner, more streamlined option and liked it much better. After deciding on the simplified look, I measured and sketched a technical drawing to scale, using graph paper under a plain sheet to trace the hood and design the surround.
On the same page I worked out what lumber and plywood I’d need. I won’t try to decode those notes here—everything becomes clearer as the build progresses—but my main goals were simple:
- Make it sturdy using moisture-, steam-, and grease-resistant plywood so it lasts
- Keep it as light as possible so it wouldn’t be a heavy load on the wall
- Make it attractive and in keeping with the kitchen
With sheets of thin plywood and 1×2 boards in the truck, I started building. My plan was to construct the cover from the bottom up, so I first built a U-shaped frame and cut plywood panels to size.
The frame was three pieces of 1×2 screwed together using a Kreg Jig. To secure it to the wall I made pocket holes and fastened the frame into the wood plank we had previously used to mount the hood (that overhang made sense after all).
The frame doesn’t touch the hood itself, so the cover essentially floats around it. Our high-efficiency hood vents steam upward into the ductwork, and surrounding wood has performed well in many other kitchens without moisture problems. Since wood cabinets are often installed beside or above hoods without issue, we felt confident a properly sealed, ventilated surround would work fine here.
Note: these photos were taken before we realized metal foil tape was a better choice than duct tape for the vent joints; we’ve since swapped it out and will show those photos in a future update along with how we patched the ceiling.
With the base frame installed I nailed the thin plywood panels to it. The first three sides went up quickly and already transformed the look of the hood.
We left a small gap around the front so our fingers could reach the hood’s control buttons. The gap is just big enough to operate the controls without being visually awkward.
From certain angles—like Sherry’s height—the buttons are even visible, so you don’t have to crouch to see or press them. That accessibility was important to us, so the controls remain easy to use while still hidden.
Next I built a slightly smaller 1×2 frame to support the sloped top panel. I cut the board at an angle on the table saw to make the sloped plywood sit flush. The angle was an educated guess rather than a precise measurement, but it improved the fit compared with a square edge.
That smaller frame attached to the upper portion of the hood, and I added another short 1×2 ledge to nail the next plywood panels into place. I also made another angled cut to help the sloped piece rest neatly against it.
For the angled side panels I held each piece in place and marked the exact cut line, then ran them through the table saw to create the required quadrilaterals. After attaching those two side pieces the structure really began to look like a cohesive cover—still raw, but much closer to finished.
For the final tier—the chimney around the vent pipe—I built a narrow 1×2 frame and secured it into ceiling joists for a firm hold. The vent pipe hole is larger than expected, so we’ll need to patch the ceiling before finishing. We’ll also add crown molding to integrate the chimney into the wall for a polished result.
With the chimney panel in place the main construction was essentially complete. The cover was secure, the controls accessible, and the shape matched our design. It still looked unfinished, though, so trim was the next focus.
Trim made a big difference. To keep the surround light, I used lightweight trim and glued most pieces rather than nailing them to avoid stressing the thin panels. Proper priming and painting with a durable cabinet-grade paint will protect the wood from kitchen moisture and grease.
We decided against the original idea of multiple inset panels across the front and sides; the clean, simple trim better complements our existing cabinets and sped up the process. Liquid Nails was handy since it allowed a short adjustment window, but when an old tube ran out I switched to Loctite, which provided a sturdier initial bond and eliminated the need for tape.
The top trim took a little longer, partly because I ran out of material and had to make another hardware store run. We skipped trim on the chimney because it isn’t meant to be a decorative focal point; once the ceiling hole is patched and crown molding is installed, that section will blend in nicely.
It’s not perfect yet—there is some caulking and priming left to do—but the three goals were met: it’s sturdy, lightweight, and attractive. Functionally it should hold up as well as painted cabinetry next to a hood once it’s properly sealed and painted.
The whole project cost far less than the $3–4K built surrounds we saw. My materials ended up costing around $90 for the trim and plywood, bringing the hood and surround total to roughly $175 after accounting for the hood itself and mounting hardware. For a custom-looking result that stays within a modest budget, that felt like a win.
I took a few “after” photos while the kitchen was clean because book photo shoots were starting at our house and I didn’t know when it would look like this again. The room still needs crown molding, open shelves, paint, a dishwasher installation, a light over the sink, and other finishing touches, but having the hood surround up already breaks up the expanse of tile and helps define that wall.
Finishing the paint, patching the ceiling, and adding the open shelves are next on the list—those will tidy everything up and give the hood surround the polished look we want. Have you ever built a range hood surround? If not, this was our first time too, and it turned out to be a manageable project with a satisfying result.