Can we just paint the cabinets already? Our patience is running thin, and if you’re eager for painted cabinets, imagine how we feel. When we planned this kitchen update we thought it would be as simple as retrofitting a few doors and painting. Once we got into the details—right in the middle of the holiday rush—it became clear there’s a lot to do first: filling gaps, sanding rough spots, adding trim, sorting hinges, choosing hardware, picking primer, and finalizing a paint color.
First up: trim. I rebuilt the window sill and molding so we could caulk, prime, and paint while the cabinets were out. Our old sill was a piece of granite that matched the previous counters, but I prefer a wood sill. I picked up a piece of pine at Home Depot, cut a couple of notches to fit, slid it into place, and nailed it down.
Next I cut and nailed the trim casings around the window and added a smaller piece under the sill to echo the half-wall ledge detail from earlier projects. With the new sill in place, the window is ready for caulk to fill the small corner gaps, primer for the raw wood, and a white semi-gloss top coat for durability and easy cleaning.
We also addressed the toe-kick along the base cabinets, much of which had been removed when we reconfigured the layout. In some spots I could reuse leftover pieces. For the peninsula we needed new material, but off-the-shelf toe-kick trim wasn’t available. Rather than special order, I bought pre-primed baseboard that fits under the peninsula cabinets. Since everything will be painted the same cabinet color, it blends in seamlessly.
We’re still undecided on how to finish the back of the peninsula—options include worn wood or raised panels—so the toe-kick stops abruptly on one side. I’ll cover that raw end with whatever trim we eventually install. I bought shoe molding but will install it after the new floors are in, priming and painting it beforehand to avoid getting paint on the new cork floors.
Another small trim issue: the bottom edge of a corner cabinet frame was slightly uneven and sat about 1/2″ higher than the adjacent cabinets. To correct it I glued 1/2″ pine craft wood pieces into place with clamps and heavy-duty glue since there wasn’t room for a hammer or screwdriver. Once putty, sanding, primer, and paint are applied, the adjustment should be invisible.
We briefly considered adding crown molding to the upper cabinets, but we’ve been enjoying the clean, modern look of the squared-off edges. Holding crown up to the cabinets felt too ornate and cluttered, so for now we’ll leave them as is. If we decide later that crown is needed, we can add pre-primed and painted pieces without risking the cabinet finish.
Hinges were another decision point. Hidden hinges won’t work with our half-sunk doors because those doors have a thin, stepped edge that leaves too little material for routing. Exposed hinges are common and look great on many kitchens, so we accepted that choice. We tried spray-painting the original hinges to match our selected hardware to save money, testing two satin nickel spray finishes. The results looked uneven and stippled, and the paint wore off where the hinge moved. Ultimately spray painting the hinges didn’t hold up, so we decided to replace them. The cost is modest relative to a full renovation and the new hinges will provide a fresh, functional look.
We’ve finally chosen a cabinet color: a soft, warm off-white called Cloud Cover. We debated between a pure white and a gray-beige tone. With gray already present in adjacent rooms and a soft gray penny-tile backsplash, we worried that gray cabinets might blend in too much. White cabinets feel classic and timeless, but we wanted something slightly softer than a bright white. Cloud Cover reads as a very light warm greige from up close but reads as a soft white from a distance. It complements the backsplash and the dark cork floors, which prevent the space from feeling sterile.
Our color selection process included pulling many swatches, placing favorites against the counters and backsplash, and observing them in different light conditions—morning, noon, and night. After narrowing to four finalists, we trusted our instincts and chose the swatch we loved from the start.
Here’s the plan for painting and reinstalling the cabinets:
- Remove doors, drawer fronts, and hardware
- Empty all cabinets
- Fill gaps, seams, and old knob holes with wood putty
- Sand putty and smooth any dings, chips, or ridges
- Sand all cabinet doors and frames to prep for primer
- Thoroughly clean up sanding dust
- Use a liquid deglosser on doors and frames for better adhesion
- Finalize hardware and hinge plan
- Prime the surfaces (consult with a paint professional for the best primer)
- Apply paint—aiming for two coats on each side and on frames
- Allow paint to dry and cure for 3–5 days as recommended
- Drill holes, install new hinges and hardware
- Reinstall doors and drawers
- Restock cabinets and drawers
- Take a well-deserved nap
- Photograph the finished room
Preparing thoroughly will take extra time, but we want a durable finish that lasts for years. We expect to prime and paint between Christmas and New Year’s and hope to share plenty of after photos in early January.
On another note: our sunroom has become the staging area for sanding, priming, and painting cabinet doors. After sorting reusable cabinet scraps, donating the rest, and organizing tools and materials, the sunroom is set up as a work zone where we can keep fumes out of the main house and keep the area off-limits to Clara. We’ll protect the furniture with drop cloths and use the space to work through the remaining steps.
We’ve already checked a few items off the list: setting up the sunroom work area, removing doors, drawer fronts, and hardware, and emptying the cabinets. With most of the planning done and decisions made, the project is moving forward. We’re excited to have refreshed cabinets for the new year and to see the completed kitchen come together.
What are you tackling this week? Any big projects or holiday plans? We’d love to hear about them.