Can we just paint the cabinets already? Our enthusiasm is high, but once we started the actual work we realized there’s a lot to do before any paint goes on. The plan began simple: retrofit a few doors, paint, celebrate. In reality, the project quickly multiplied into filling gaps, sanding rough spots, adding trim, addressing hinges, choosing hardware, picking a primer, settling on a final color, and more.
First up was trim. I decided to rebuild the window sill and molding so we could caulk, prime, and paint everything while the cabinets were out. The old sill had been a piece of granite that matched the previous countertops, but we prefer wood sills here. I bought a pine board sized to fit, cut a couple of notches, slid it into place, and nailed it down.
After that I cut and nailed the trim casings around the edges, and even added a narrow piece beneath the sill to match a detail we used on another ledge. With the sill rebuilt, the area is ready for caulk to fill small gaps, primer on the raw wood, and a protective semi-gloss white paint for durability and easy cleaning.
Next was the toe-kick along the bottom of the base cabinets. Much of it was removed when we rearranged the layout, so I reused leftover pieces where possible. Around the peninsula we needed new trim. Since I couldn’t find the exact off-the-shelf toe-kick trim, I used pre-primed baseboard cut to fit under the peninsula. Because everything will be painted the same cabinet color, the substitution will blend in once finished. The toe-kick stops abruptly on one side because we haven’t decided on the treatment for the back of the peninsula yet—options we’re considering include worn wood or raised panels—and we’ll cover that raw end with whatever trim we choose. I bought shoe molding but will wait to install it until after the new cork floors are in, and I’ll prime and paint the shoe molding before installation to avoid getting paint on the new flooring.
While working on trim, I noticed a small unevenness at the bottom edge of a corner cabinet frame: it sat about 1/2″ higher than the adjacent cabinets. To correct it I glued 1/2″ strips of pine craft wood into place using heavy-duty wood glue and clamps. Since tools couldn’t fit under the gap, glue and clamps were the only option. After puttying, sanding, priming, and painting, the correction should be invisible.
We also debated adding crown molding to the upper cabinets, but we’ve grown to like the clean, modern look of the square, unadorned edges. Holding crown up against the cabinets felt too fussy, so for now we’ll leave it off. If we change our minds later, we can add pre-primed, painted crown without worrying about damaging the cabinet finish.
Hinges were another crossroads. We considered concealed hinges but our doors are half-sunk, meaning they have a thin stepped-down edge that’s too narrow for routing hidden hinges. Exposed hinges work better for our doors, and there are plenty of attractive examples to inspire us. We tried spray-painting the original hinges in satin nickel finishes to match the hardware we selected, but the results looked stippled and fake. The paint wore off quickly where the hinge moved, so spray-painting wasn’t durable enough. Given that, spending about $90 on new, correctly finished hinges is a small and worthwhile investment for a clean, functional result.
We also finally picked a cabinet color. We oscillated between a bright white and a soft warm gray or greige. Because several nearby rooms feature gray walls and our backsplash is a soft gray penny tile, we didn’t want the cabinets to make the space feel too gray or wash out the tile. Painted cabinets in a subtle white tone feel timeless to us, so we chose a shade called Cloud Cover. It’s not a stark bright white but a very light warm gray—essentially a warm greige that reads as a soft white from a distance and reveals its tone up close. With the room’s dark cork floors and the bright white countertops, this finish should look balanced, bright, and classic.
Here’s our step-by-step plan for the cabinet transformation:
- Remove doors, drawer fronts, and hardware
- Empty all cabinet interiors
- Fill gaps, seams, and old knob holes with wood putty
- Sand putty and any surface imperfections smooth
- Sand all cabinet doors (front and back) and frames to dull the surface for better primer adhesion
- Thoroughly clean all sanding dust
- Use a liquid deglosser on doors and frames for additional adhesion assurance
- Buy final hardware and confirm hinge plan
- Prime (aiming for one coat if the primer provides good coverage)
- Paint (we plan two coats on each side of doors and frames)
- Let paint dry and cure for 3–5 days as recommended
- Drill for and install new hinges and hardware
- Reinstall doors and drawers
- Return dishes and cookware to cabinets
- Take a well-earned rest and then photograph the finished space
Typing out the list is exhausting, but the prep work matters. We want a paint job that lasts for years, so we’re taking the extra steps now to avoid problems later. We’ll likely prime and paint during the week between Christmas and New Year’s, which should give us finished photos in early January.
Meanwhile, our sunroom has doubled as a workshop and storage area for demo scraps and cabinet parts. Once we sorted what was usable and what could go, we cleared space: usable cabinet pieces were donated, smaller scraps moved to my basement pile, and tools tidied. We set up a temporary paint and sanding area on the couch and daybed with drop cloths to protect the upholstery. The sunroom is a practical place to spread out while keeping fumes and work away from the rest of the house.
With doors, drawer fronts, and hardware removed and most cabinets emptied, several major tasks are already crossed off our list. There are still many steps to go, but progress feels good. We’re juggling holiday guests and a bit of chaos, but family seems to enjoy the lively construction scene. If you’re tackling projects this season, what are you working on? Big meals, big lists, or big home projects?