Since we last checked in on the sunroom, Sherry and I knocked four more items off the project list: we installed two ceiling fans, cleaned and leveled the concrete floor, and cut and dry-fitted the tile to plan our pattern. We’ll post the fan installation tutorial soon, but for now we’re excited to share the three tile-prep steps that made a big difference over one productive weekend.
Our tile prep focused on three priorities: eliminate a lingering odor, level low spots so water wouldn’t pool, and settle on a tile layout (border or no border, brick pattern or grid). First up was deep-cleaning the concrete. This sunroom once had wall-to-wall carpeting that got wet from damaged doors and rot, so the concrete had absorbed odors. Most smells improved once we removed the glass doors and aired the space out, but we decided to be thorough and treat the floor anyway.
Many readers recommended a product called MisterMax Anti-Icky-Poo when we removed the old carpet. Even though we planned to cover the concrete with tile, we didn’t want any musty smell to return on humid days. We applied the cleaner by scrubbing it on with a brush, then letting the floor dry. The process is simple and effective, and it gave us confidence that the concrete wouldn’t emit odors once the room warmed up.
The next issue was a few low spots where water collected after rain. With the glass removed, the sunroom gets some moisture and small puddles tended to form near the house—exactly where we might place furniture. To prevent standing water under chairs or tables, we used self-leveling concrete to even out the floor and introduce a slight slope away from the house.
Self-leveling cement sounded intimidating at first, but after watching several how-to videos, it felt manageable. We purchased the mix and a recommended primer from The Tile Shop; the primer was very watery and easy to brush on to improve adhesion. One bag of the mix covers about 15 square feet. I bought five bags intending to patch only low spots and create a slight slope, but ended up using four. For mixing, a 6-gallon bucket proved much better than the smaller Home Depot 5-gallon option, so if you try this, grab a larger mixing tub.
We also used a simple measuring bucket for the water, which has a hole to prevent overfilling. It’s a cheap tool but provided reliable consistency for each bag. Mixing requires a paddle mixer attached to a drill. The self-leveling mix is very fluid—much thinner than typical cement—which is what lets it flow and level itself. I poured each batch, swept with a broom to encourage the liquid into low areas and corners, and watched it find a flat plane. It’s not magic: you still guide it, but the material does most of the leveling work for you.
After four bags, the treated areas began to firm up quickly; the following morning the surface was fully set and ready to move on to the next step.
With the floor clean and level, we began planning tile placement. We were already leaning toward a running-bond (brick) layout for our 20″ x 20″ square tiles, but we needed to decide where to start and whether to add a border. Dry-fitting tiles revealed that trimming the bottoms of the door jambs would be necessary so the tile could slide under the trim and create a cleaner transition. I used a flat saw (a Dremel Multimax) with a piece of cardboard to protect the tile and account for thinset thickness while setting the cut height.
Removing that trim chunk gives a much neater edge, and after the tile is mortared in place we’ll seal the joint with exterior-grade clear caulk to protect the wood against moisture.
Dry-fitting also confirmed we wanted a border. The border sharply defines the room edge and gives a more finished, higher-end look. It also simplified cutting around posts: instead of complicated notches, we could make the border the same width as the posts and work inward, which reduced the number of interior cuts. To create the border, I cut the square tiles on the wet saw; each tile yielded three border pieces, so we were efficient with our material.
Cutting eight tiles to make 24 border pieces wasn’t thrilling, but the final effect is cleaner and helps manage the slight step from the deck into the sunroom. To protect and finish the exposed tile edge visible from the deck, we selected metal edging strips that can be trimmed with metal snips. The edging provides a thin charcoal trim that conceals the raw cut edge and gives the perimeter a polished look.
Our goal is to have all tiles set by tomorrow, with grouting and cleanup to follow so we can share the before-and-after photos soon. We’ll also post the fan installation details in a follow-up. What did you get done this weekend?