Our recent sunroom floor staining debacle pushed us away from semi-transparent finishes (which work beautifully on raw concrete but don’t adhere as well over previously stained surfaces) and toward a solid, glossy, opaque treatment. The result is a rich, durable floor that we’re thrilled with. Here’s how we accomplished it.
After testing options, we found that oil-based porch and floor paint was the best choice for our previously stained concrete. Latex floor paints don’t bond well to stained concrete, but an oil-based formula provides the adhesion, gloss, and durability we wanted. We chose a deep chocolate brown called Brownstone from a quality oil-based porch and floor paint line, and it perfectly coordinated with the adjoining hardwood floors.
This oil-based product was ideal for our high-traffic sunroom because it’s extremely durable, resists scuffing, and retains a high gloss finish. It also works well on other surfaces such as properly prepared wood and primed metal, making it a versatile option for updating worn floors throughout a home.
Below is the straightforward five-step process we used to paint our concrete floor. These steps will help ensure a smooth, even, long-lasting finish when using oil-based porch and floor paint.
Step 1: Clean the floor thoroughly. Start by vacuuming to remove any loose dirt and debris, then wipe the surface with a mildly soapy damp rag. Allow the floor to dry completely before painting. If you are painting a wood floor, sand or patch any splintered or rough areas first so the paint lays down evenly.
Step 2: Edge the perimeter with a quality brush. Use a good-quality brush that won’t shed bristles and cut in about four inches from the walls. Oil-based paint’s glossy finish makes any stray bristles or imperfections more noticeable than a matte finish would, so take your time on the edges.
Step 3: Roll the floor using an extended pole and a suitable roller cover. Apply one even coat of paint, rolling in long strokes. Use a “W” pattern to help distribute the paint evenly and prevent roller marks or globs. Be mindful of painting yourself into the room: oil paint can take a long time to dry to the point where it can be walked on.
Step 4: Assess whether a second coat is needed. In many cases one coat may be enough, but we chose to apply a second coat for complete, uniform coverage and to touch up a few missed spots. Wait at least 24 hours before applying a second coat. Even if the surface still feels slightly tacky after that period, a second coat will level and gloss over the first and achieve the finished look.
Step 5: Allow sufficient curing time before walking on the floor. We waited at least six full days before moving furniture back in or walking across the finish. It can feel like a long time to wait, but letting the oil-based paint cure thoroughly ensures maximum durability and reduces the risk of scuffing or surface marks. Because oil paint produces strong fumes, keep windows open and provide ventilation while it cures.
The final result is a glossy, uniform chocolate-brown floor that reads like melted chocolate—deep, warm, and refined. The rich color complements the dark brown window sashes and makes our white furniture really pop, replacing the old orangey-gold tone that previously dominated the room.
One of the best surprises was how well the painted sunroom floor transitions to the existing hardwood in the adjoining laundry nook and den. The uniform color and high-gloss sheen create a more cohesive flow between spaces, making the sunroom feel like an intentional part of the home rather than an afterthought.
We hope this quick, practical floor-painting tutorial helps you update your own space. If you try this method, send before-and-after photos—we love seeing transformations. Happy rolling!
PS: For those interested in staining rather than painting, we also have a full tutorial showing how to use a semi-transparent stain on concrete floors. PPS: We later added a decorative stencil to this painted floor to introduce extra interest and pattern.