How do you like them handles?
(Handles, apples. Same difference. Right, Matt Damon? No idea if he reads this blog—probably not.)
I’m back with the full hardware makeover play-by-play and plenty of photos we couldn’t fit into our door-painting post from Wednesday. Strap in—this one includes a small crisis, a recovery, and a surprisingly satisfying finish. First, the confession: the hardware on our living room sliding doors looked like this:
Yikes. The swoopy gold handle was in rough shape; up close it wasn’t shiny new gold at all but rusty and neglected.
We removed the hardware from both sliding doors in about five minutes—one of us worked on each door—using a regular Phillips screwdriver to unfasten the exposed screws on the front, back, and side. We also removed the doorknob and the rusty door knocker from the front door the same way.
For more on sanding paint around hardware and prepping doors, see our door-painting post. But back to the hardware pile: here are the sliding door pieces along with the front-door knob, deadbolt, and knocker.
Think of it as a “Gold Hardware: Where Are They Now?” special. Some pieces were less crusty than others, but none were looking their best.
After some research and a helpful chat with the paint experts at our local store, we settled on the most recommended refinishing method for durable, long-lasting results:
- Roughen the surface gently with very fine sandpaper (200+ grit) if needed.
- Use a liquid deglosser to remove oils and sanding residue before painting.
- Apply a thin, even coat of a metal primer, preferably one formulated for metal surfaces.
- Finish with two to three thin, even coats of high-quality spray paint designed for metal in your chosen color.
I started with the sanding step—and immediately regretted it. The sandpaper left noticeable scratches in the finish that I worried thin coats of primer and paint wouldn’t fully hide. I freaked out, set the sandpaper aside, and tried to reassure myself that the scuffed side would sit underneath once reinstalled. Lesson learned: if you try sanding, use extra-fine automotive sandpaper or steel wool for a subtler effect and test in an inconspicuous area first.
Update: Several readers suggested steel wool or higher-grit automotive sandpaper to roughen the surface without obvious scratches. Good tip for anyone attempting this.
Next: deglossing. Wearing gloves, I wiped each piece with a liquid deglosser and let it dry until it wasn’t wet to the touch. When I reached for a separate primer can I noticed the spray I had chosen said “paint & primer in one.” That simplified things.
I used an oil-rubbed-bronze spray paint with built-in primer and applied three thin, even coats to all the pieces. To make spraying easier, I stood parts up by piercing interior rods through cardboard so each piece could be accessed all around. Thin, even coats are key—they dry consistently, avoid drips, and bond well, which helps prevent flaking or peeling later.
A quick trick: use a spare key to block the interior of the lock so paint doesn’t get inside. I inserted the key halfway so it blocked the keyway without covering the exterior of the knob. I swapped it to the deadbolt when spraying that piece.
Another tip: thread the screws into the hardware and pierce them through the cardboard as well so the screw heads get painted to match, and move latches and toggles between coats so all surfaces get even coverage.
After about an hour—waiting roughly 20 minutes between coats—I had a uniform set of refreshed pieces. I let everything cure for about six hours before reinstalling to reduce the chance of scratches or dings during reattachment. Reinstalling went smoothly and everything functions as before. It’s only been a couple of days, so I can’t speak to long-term durability yet, but initial results look promising.
Photos can make oil-rubbed bronze look almost black; in person the finish is a warm, metallic chocolate tone. The exterior shots captured the color more accurately than some indoor photos, which tended to darken it.
One fun outcome: a styling quiz I took highlighted a look I loved—the white door paired with dark hardware—and now that look is mine. The new finish pairs nicely with oil-rubbed bronze curtain rods and dark ceiling beams. My husband likes it too, even if he wouldn’t use the word “delish.”
In short: the project was a success despite the sanding scare. If you follow the general method—deglossing, standing pieces up for even coverage, using a half-inserted key to protect keyways, spraying thin coats every 20 minutes, moving hardware parts between coats, and allowing ample cure time—you should end up with a secure, attractive finish.
The total cost for us was very low: about $6 for the spray paint (I returned the unopened separate primer can I bought), and I already had a deglosser and sandpaper on hand. Buying new hardware would likely have cost around $200, so this was a great savings if the finish continues to hold up. We’ll post an update after more time passes to report on long-term durability.
Update: Our handles are still holding steady after further use.
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