Tired of wrestling with hoses, sprinklers, and timers to keep your lawn watered? Or frustrated watching grass fade in the summer heat? You can install an automated in-ground irrigation system yourself. It takes planning, patience, and elbow grease, but we saved hundreds of dollars by doing it. Here’s how we completed the project.
Before diving into step-by-step directions, a few important questions and lessons learned will help you decide whether to tackle this as a DIY project.
Should You DIY Your Sprinkler System?
I’m proud we did it, but realistically, our large, oddly shaped yard made this a tough DIY project. What a professional crew could have completed in a day or two took me over three weeks. The repetitive digging, gluing, and pipe fitting left me exhausted and sore.
Smaller yards or garden beds are better DIY candidates, and drip irrigation in particular is simple to install and effective. For large systems, though, consider whether saving money is worth the time and physical effort. That said, we saved about $1,700 compared with a professional quote, and knowing how everything is installed makes future repairs and changes far easier.
If you’re comfortable with physical work, planning, and troubleshooting, DIY is feasible. If not, budget permitting, a professional is a good option for large installations.
Why Install A Sprinkler System
A sprinkler system delivers consistent, deep watering to lawns, gardens, and planters—even during dry spells—saving time and reducing the guesswork of manual watering. Modern controllers let you customize schedules by zone, adapt to sun and shade, and even use weather data to skip watering when rain is expected.
We hired a landscape architect for a planting plan before installing irrigation so watering needs would guide plant placement. That upfront planning saved time and prevented problems later.
We got professional quotes around $3,500 but our neighbor offered help and had done this before, so we decided to give it a try last September.
Steps to Installing a Sprinkler System
Below is an overview of the process. Each step is explained in more detail afterward.
- Get a companion meter
- Plan your layout
- Call 811 to mark utilities
- Buy materials
- Dig trenches
- Lay pipes
- Install valves
- Install a backflow preventer
- Add sprinkler heads
- Wire the system
- Program and finish
Step 1: Get A Companion Meter
A companion meter is a secondary meter for irrigation or pools that tracks water use but not sewer charges. In our county, the water department installs it for a fee; we paid $500 and waited a couple of weeks. Check local rules and start this process early if required.
Step 2: Plan Your Layout
A thoughtful layout saves time and money. Identify where the water source (companion meter) is and where the controller will be mounted and powered. From the main line you’ll branch zone lines. Zones help maintain water pressure and allow different watering schedules in sunny versus shaded areas.
We mapped a main line and individual zone lines, then walked the yard to space sprinkler heads about 8–10 big steps apart, marking locations with flags. You can later adjust each head’s arc and direction to avoid overspray onto driveways, decks, or woods.
Step 3: Call 811
Always call 811 to have underground utilities located and marked before digging. It’s a crucial safety step.
Step 4: Buying Sprinkler System Materials
With your layout ready, purchase supplies. Quantities depend on your plan, but the essentials include sprinkler and mister heads, swing (poly) pipe and elbows, threaded tees, valves and valve boxes, 3/4″ and 1″ PVC with connectors, primer and cement, a controller sized for your zone count, underground sprinkler wire, a backflow preventer, and trenching tools.
Sprinkler heads sit mostly buried and pop up when pressurized; they connect to zone lines with short sections of flexible swing pipe so you can position heads precisely. Valves control each zone and are buried in valve boxes; the controller, mounted near a power source, switches valves on and off and schedules watering.
We used 1″ PVC for the main line and reduced to 3/4″ for most zone lines to save cost. Make a list from your layout to estimate lengths and fittings.
Step 5: Dig Trenches
Trenching can be the most labor-intensive part. For large yards, renting a trencher is time-saving; I rented one for a day. Take care around sidewalks, driveways, or utilities—some sections may need to be hand-dug. Leave room to maneuver and protect yourself while operating equipment.
Step 6: Lay Your Irrigation Pipes
Lay out PVC in the trenches and glue connections using PVC primer and cement. Apply primer, then cement, push pieces together with a slight twist, and hold briefly. Use a ratcheting pipe cutter for neat cuts. This work is repetitive and can strain your back and shoulders—pace yourself and take breaks.
Step 7: Install Your Valves
Install a valve at the start of each zone where it branches from the main line. Use the proper threaded couplings for connections, follow the valve’s flow direction, and place each valve inside a valve box for access. Plumbing and wiring are both required; you can wire valves after plumbing is complete.
Step 8: Install A Backflow Preventer
Many jurisdictions require a backflow preventer to stop irrigation water from flowing back into the public water supply. Connecting it correctly can be tricky—expect inspections and local requirements that may demand shut-off valves, removable couplings for winterization, and the correct placement of the blowout port. Check local codes and be prepared to adjust your installation to meet inspection requirements.
If you run into connectivity problems with the water main, a plumber may be needed—those repairs can add cost and time.
Step 9: Add Sprinkler Heads
Install threaded tees at each planned head location, attach short swing pipe sections, and screw sprinkler heads onto the swing pipe. Assemble fittings in batches to save time. Set heads low enough to avoid damage from mowers, and adjust spray arcs and nozzles once the system is pressurized to achieve even coverage without overspray.
Step 10: Wire Everything Together
Run multi-conductor underground wire from the controller to each valve. Use the common wire and separate colored conductors for each zone. Leave extra slack at each valve and use waterproof wire connectors. Connect the common wire to every valve’s common terminal and assign zone colors consistently so troubleshooting later is straightforward. Mount and wire the controller but don’t power it until testing is ready.
Step 11: Programming & Finishing Touches
Test each zone for leaks, set nozzle arcs, and program the controller with appropriate run times and schedules. Fill trenches and repair the lawn where needed, laying seed or sod as the season allows. Expect some cleanup and touch-ups after heavy rain or settling.
Installing your own sprinkler system is achievable and straightforward in concept, but it requires effort, planning, and patience. For large yards, hiring a professional may be worth the cost. Our DIY install cost about $1,800 including tool and truck rental—roughly half the professional estimate—so the savings were real, even if my shoulders disagreed.
More Outdoor & Landscaping Projects
If you enjoyed this project, consider other yard projects such as installing drip irrigation, building a vine trellis, adding landscape lighting, pressure washing, or refinishing a deck. These projects similarly benefit from planning and the right tools.
*This post originally referenced helpful products and resources used in the project.