We set out to refinish the old, stained clawfoot tub in our beach house bathroom ourselves. Having it professionally reglazed felt overwhelming—the tub is heavy and awkward—so we decided to tackle it as a DIY project. To our surprise, the work was straightforward, cost roughly $50 in materials, and required mostly elbow grease. Below I’ll walk through what worked, what didn’t, and how we brought the tub back to life.
Finding An Old Tub
This particular tub came with the house when we bought it, although its condition was rough. The bathroom itself was in bad shape and we ended up having to rebuild an entire side of the house to make it structurally sound. If you’re hunting for a vintage clawfoot tub, check architectural salvage stores or online marketplaces for neglected pieces. Buying and transporting one costs money, but you can often save compared with purchasing a new freestanding tub.
We waited a few months to tackle the tub until the construction dust settled and the bathroom was almost ready. When we finally started, the process broke down into two main parts: cleaning and repairing the interior surface, and sanding/painting the exterior.
Materials For Refinishing Your Clawfoot Tub
Most restorations require attention to both inside and outside surfaces. The inside is mainly cleaning and small repairs to the glaze; the outside is mostly sanding and painting. Here are the basics that worked for us.
- Soft sponge and scouring pads
- Spray bottle
- Bar Keeper’s Friend or similar soft surface cleanser
- Heavy-duty Magic Erasers
- Fine-grade steel wool (#0)
- Tub-and-tile refinishing kit (optional for small epoxy repairs)
- Painter’s multi-tool (optional)
- Gloves and dust mask
- Coarse, medium, and fine grit sanding blocks
- Rust-removing drill attachment and power drill
- Lead paint test kit
- Oil-based clean metal primer (quart)
- Anti-rust oil-based paint in your chosen color (quart)
- Small foam rollers and chip brushes
- Paintbrush for oil paint
- Drop cloth or cardboard to protect the floor
Step 1: Assess The Damage
We started by wiping the tub down with a sponge and water to separate surface grime from deeper stains. Rust spots were our biggest concern because they can pit the enamel and compromise the tub’s finish. Fortunately, a surprising amount of grime came off right away, which encouraged us to avoid an expensive professional reglaze for the interior.
There were still stubborn hard-water and rust stains, but the goal at this stage was to determine whether the original glaze was intact enough to restore rather than replace.
Step 2: Clean The Inside With Vinegar
For light stains we mixed equal parts white vinegar and water in a spray bottle, coated the interior, and scrubbed with a green scouring pad. That removed a lot of the surface buildup and made a noticeable difference, although tougher stains remained.
Step 3: Heavy-Duty Scrubbing
We used Bar Keeper’s Friend soft cleanser, applied it to damp areas, let it sit, and scrubbed. The first attempt didn’t budge the worst stains, so we let it soak longer and used heavy-duty Magic Erasers and then fine-grade steel wool. That combination loosened rust streaks and mineral deposits—tiring work, but effective. A multi-tool or putty knife can help remove large chunks of scale if needed, but use caution to avoid scratching the glaze.
The interior never became perfectly flawless, but it was clean enough to use and the original glaze looked sound. Many of the remaining marks will be hidden once new fixtures and a drain are installed.
Step 4: Sand The Outside
The exterior required more work because paint and rust were flaking. We began by sanding with coarse grit by hand to remove loose paint, then used a rust-removing drill attachment for faster progress. Always test old tubs for lead paint before sanding—many vintage pieces contain lead and require special precautions. We wore dust masks and worked carefully to minimize airborne dust.
After removing the worst of the flaking finish, we smoothed edges with medium and fine grit sanding blocks until the surface felt smooth to the touch. This took only about 20 minutes to get to a paint-ready surface.
Step 5: Prime With Clean Metal Primer
Once the exterior was sanded and wiped clean, we applied an oil-based clean metal primer. This seals the surface, covers remaining rust, and prevents future corrosion. We used small foam rollers for broad areas and chip brushes for crevices and around the feet. Be aware that oil-based primers are odorous and can drip—protect floors and ventilate the room.
Step 6: Paint The Outside
After the primer cured, we painted the exterior in our chosen color. We used an anti-rust enamel for durability and moisture resistance, applying it with foam rollers and an oil-paint brush for detail work. The paint went on thick, and we took care to ventilate and use masks when needed.
We chose a deep blue to contrast the bathroom tiles, and finished with the feet painted the same color to maintain a classic two-tone look. The surface isn’t perfectly smooth—subtle texture from the original finish shows through—but that gives the tub character and a lived-in feel rather than the slick appearance of a new replica.
Altogether the materials cost about fifty dollars and a bit of sweat. The result feels like a high-end restoration and transforms the whole room. A few weeks later, after fixtures and plumbing were installed, the tub looked even better in place and full of water.
If you find an old clawfoot tub that’s in structurally sound condition, a careful cleaning and a patient sanding/paint job can give it a beautiful second life. The investment is small, and the result adds genuine character to a bathroom.
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