I’m back with the final chapter before the big reveal next week. I know the suspense has been long, but this pace reflects the real timeline of the renovation: no quick TV-style before-and-after, just the step-by-step progress as it actually happened. Thankfully, the dirt and exhaustion you see here are a little less intense than what we lived through. You’ve been enjoying daily showers at home while we’ve been making do with gym facilities—until this morning, when we took our first shower in the newly finished bathroom after about a month. It felt amazing. So take a deep breath and read on as I walk you through last weekend’s main project: turning a nightstand into a vanity.
Following our initial plan, we decided to build a custom vanity by adapting a piece of furniture rather than buying an expensive ready-made unit. We loved the look of high-end vanities at places like Pottery Barn and Restoration Hardware, but we didn’t want to spend over a thousand dollars. After some online searching and a day of thrift and home-store hopping, we found a clean-lined sink and a sleek chrome faucet on sale and paired them with a simple night table bought with a small discount. The result: a modern-traditional vanity that cost far less than comparable prebuilt cabinets.
Because the nightstand’s factory finish isn’t designed for humid bathroom use, we added protection by applying three coats of a clear, low-VOC lacquer. We chose an eco-friendlier acrylic lacquer and applied it outdoors for maximum ventilation. After a light sanding between coats, the finish performed well in our tests—water beads up on the surface and the finish appears impervious to the occasional splash, which is exactly what you want for a bathroom surface.
The trickiest and greasiest part of the project was cutting and drilling to make room for the faucet, drain, and water supply. Once the floors were installed and the vanity was dry, we positioned the table in the bathroom to identify where to cut and drill. Fortunately, the p-trap lined up perfectly under the drawer and upper shelf, so the bottom shelves could remain intact. The hot and cold supply lines, however, sat directly against the back of the drawer and required precise modifications to the cabinet’s rear and the drawer’s structure.
I measured and marked the sections to remove, then cut carefully. Rather than using finesse woodworking techniques, I drilled a pilot hole and finished the cuts manually with a saw where appropriate. For the holes in the top—one for the drain and one for the faucet—we used a paper towel tube as a temporary guide to locate the drain above the p-trap, marked the center with a marker, and then bored through with an appropriately sized bit. The hole-boring bit made the job quick and accurate.
After test-fitting the sink to check the drain stopper and positioning the faucet, we installed the faucet before moving the piece back into the bathroom. That made tightening the mounting hardware from underneath easier. Once the hoses were fed through the top and the nut tightened, we discovered we needed to remove an extra strip of wood so the nut could sit flush. The rough cuts are hidden against the wall and will be concealed by a slightly altered drawer front, so appearance wasn’t a major concern.
With the faucet attached, we connected the water hoses to the wall plumbing using plumber’s tape and careful tightening. To check for leaks we used a simple paper towel test: hold a dry paper towel beneath each connection for a minute and watch for damp spots. A few minor adjustments and everything held tight.
Next came the sink installation. We did a dry run—placing the sink, loosely joining plumbing, and confirming alignment—then returned with a short extension pipe needed for the drain connection. Once the pipe fit, we set the sink permanently with clear waterproof silicone caulk, applying sealant only where the sink actually contacted the tabletop. We deliberately left a small unsealed gap at the back so any future leak would be visible rather than quietly damaging the vanity top. The drain assembly followed the manufacturer’s instructions and, after tightening and the usual small adjustments, we achieved a leak-free result.
Two final tasks secured the vanity in place and restored drawer function. First, because the cabinet was only stabilized by plumbing and weight, we anchored it to the wall with L-brackets fastened under the drawer base—hidden from sight but securely holding the unit in place. Second, to accommodate plumbing behind the drawer, we shortened the drawer’s base panel and reattached the back panel at a shallower depth. The drawer was easily disassembled and modified, the cuts were made straight with a circular saw, and the reduced bottom panel slid back in and was refastened with a few new drill holes. The finished drawer still holds everyday items like toothbrushes and toothpaste while clearing room for the pipes.
With the plumbing tight, the sink sealed, the vanity secured to the wall, and the drawer adjusted, the transformation was complete. The whole installation took only a few hours and saved several hundred dollars compared to buying a prebuilt vanity. We’re thrilled with how it turned out.
Up next: the full bathroom reveal, a detailed budget breakdown, and answers to the big question—would we do it again? We’ll also share details about reglazing the tub and creating new art for the space. For now, tell us: have you ever repurposed furniture to make it more functional for your home? We’d love to hear about your DIY furniture hacks and small-space solutions.