We did it: we transformed our kitchen’s laminate countertops with a concrete finish. After sharing a quick peek at our first coat, we’re back with the final results, details on how we did it, and tips from the process to help if you try this yourself.

We’re really pleased with how the counters turned out. Photographs don’t fully capture the change, but the room already feels more updated and less like cheap laminate. In these photos the space reads a bit stark and cool, but once we add colorful window treatments, decorative items on the shelves and counters, and replace the faux brick flooring and the old almond stove, it should feel like a completely refreshed room.
Full disclosure: this was a lot of work and generated a ton of dust. It wasn’t technically difficult, but it took time, patience, and physical effort. We covered about 45 square feet of counter area — the large U-shaped cooking zone plus the nearby eat-in nook — and the project spread across five days.
We used Ardex Feather Finish to get the concrete look. The product is inexpensive per bag, but working with it requires multiple coats, sanding between layers, and careful application to get a smooth, consistent result. Below are the supplies we used and a clear overview of the process.
- Ardex Feather Finish: We used approximately 2.5 bags for our four coats. Mixing a little thinner than the manufacturer’s stiff ratio made spreading easier.
- Mixing buckets: Small buckets for mixing batches of Ardex with water. We mixed small batches so the mixture didn’t set up before we used it.
- Measuring buckets: One for water and one for powder to keep the ratios consistent.
- Sandpaper: A range of grits — we used mostly 60, 120 and 220 — plus a sanding block for comfortable hand sanding.
- Spreading tools: A 10″ drywall knife for large areas, a 4″ putty knife for edges and backsplash, and a smaller knife for tight spots like around the sink.
- Cleaning supplies: Sponges, paper towels and rags to wipe splatters and keep walls and surfaces clean as you work.
- Protective gear: Dust masks or respirators, goggles, and gloves to protect your hands and face during mixing and sanding.
Preparation started with roughing up the laminate surface using a coarse sandpaper to promote adhesion. Early on we learned to use gloves and sizable sanding blocks — the grip and protection made the process much easier on the hands.
When mixing Ardex, aim for a toothpaste-like consistency: thick enough not to drip, but thin enough to spread smoothly. The manufacturer suggests a 2:1 powder-to-water ratio, but we found adding a bit more water made the material easier to work with and avoided overly thick first layers. Ardex begins to set within 15–20 minutes, so mix in small batches.
Applying Ardex to the flat counter surfaces felt similar to icing a large cake: a wide blade sped up the work on broad areas. For vertical faces and edges, we switched to smaller knives and applied those sections after laying the top coat so the mixture on hand had firmed up slightly and was less likely to slide.
A useful trick for edges: after the material has begun to harden (around 20 minutes), smoothing them with a damp finger produces a clean, rounded finish. It became one of the more satisfying parts of the job.
We initially taped the wall to protect it from splatters, but removing the tape later was awkward in places where the mixture had adhered. After the second round we stopped using tape and carefully peeled what remained, pulling downward rather than sideways for a cleaner edge when possible.
Each coat required drying and then sanding. After the surface cured overnight, we scraped off obvious ridges with a putty knife and removed blobs to get a flat base for the next coat. Most sanding was done by hand with a sanding block to avoid gouging or creating ridges that a power sander might leave behind. For early coats we used coarse 60-grit paper to quickly remove high spots and ridges; after the final coat we switched to 220-grit to refine the top layer and minimize visible scratches.
Expect dust. The sanding produced a fine gray powder that settled everywhere, so plan for containment: sweep, vacuum and mop between sanding sessions. Regular vacuuming while you sand helps reveal areas that still need attention and keeps the mess more manageable.
We applied four coats overall. After the first coat and the initial sanding we could still see laminate in a few thin spots, but additional coats filled and hid those areas. The wet Ardex looks noticeably darker than the dry surface; sealing later will likely darken and enrich the color further and remove the chalky surface.
Tricky areas include the backsplash and the sink perimeter. The backsplash is small and full of corners, making reaching and sanding awkward. Around the sink we opted not to remove the fixture because of corroded plumbing; instead we carefully taped and worked around it, which produced better results than expected. If you plan a permanent concrete finish, removing the sink for edge work would be ideal if your plumbing allows.
In the end, the finish has an imperfect, industrial charm — not perfectly uniform, but convincingly stone-like compared with the old yellowed laminate. The flaws are part of the character and, once sealed, we expect the counters to feel more polished and cohesive.
Time and cost: the project took roughly 15 hours across five days, including prep and cleanup. Material cost was modest: about three bags of Ardex (we used 2.5) plus buckets and sandpaper, totaling roughly under $80. That works out to a very low cost per square foot compared with full replacement options.
Next step: sealing. Choosing the right sealer is important because the wrong product can discolor, scratch, or bubble over time. We’re researching high-performance concrete sealers and will test and report back on our choice, application method, and how the finish holds up over time.
Update: We later sealed the counters and tracked their wear. The sealer deepened the color and removed the chalky look, and we shared our sealing experience and follow-up observations after living with the counters for a while.