Updated 2019
We recently replaced two old fluorescent light fixtures in our kitchen. Each required a slightly different approach because one of them didn’t have a fixture box in the ceiling—just wires poking out of the drywall. Below we describe two practical, step-by-step methods for removing fluorescent lights and installing updated pendant or flush-mount fixtures.
Removing a Large Fluorescent Light Fixture
We started with the large fluorescent fixture above the stove. The swap was straightforward, so here’s the step-by-step process we followed.
Step 1: Turn Off the Power
Always turn off the circuit breaker that supplies power to the light you’re working on—don’t rely on the wall switch alone. Turning off the breaker prevents someone from accidentally restoring power while you’re handling wires. If you want extra assurance, use a voltage detector to confirm there’s no live current before touching any wiring.
Step 2: Remove the Plastic Shade and Bulbs
Remove the plastic cover (usually snapped into place) and take out the fluorescent tubes. Storing the bulbs safely prevents them from breaking during the removal process.
Step 3: Detach the Metal Panel
Unsnap the metal cover that conceals the wiring. We were relieved to find the wiring entering through the center of the fixture—if the wires enter at one end, relocating a fixture box can be more complicated.
Step 4: Disconnect the Fixture Wires
With the power off, unscrew the wire nuts to separate the fixture wiring from the ceiling wiring. There’s no need to alter wiring inside the fixture itself—just disconnect the junction between the fixture and the house wiring.
Step 5: Remove the Fixture
Once the wires are disconnected, remove the screws that secure the fixture to the ceiling and take the fixture down. If your old light is still in usable condition, consider donating it to a local reuse center.
Step 6: Repair and Paint the Ceiling
Spackle any screw holes, fix any minor damage, and repaint the area so the ceiling looks seamless under the new fixture. Many new fixtures won’t cover the same exact spot, so patching and painting are important to eliminate visible traces of the old fixture.
Installing a Pendant or Flush-Mount Fixture
With the fluorescent fixture removed, you can install a pendant, semi-flush, or flush-mount light. We installed a burlap-style pendant on a dual-bulb mounting bracket, but the basic installation steps are the same for most fixtures.
Note: If you’re uncomfortable with any part of this process, hire a licensed electrician. If you’ve come this far, however, the remaining steps are usually straightforward.
Step 1: Trim Excess Cord
If the fixture has excess cord, trim it so the fixture will sit where you want it. This is also how you shorten pendants or convert a plug-in light to a hard-wired installation.
Step 2: Strip the Wires
Use wire strippers to expose the insulated wire tips so they’re ready to be connected to the ceiling wiring. Properly stripped wires make secure connections and reduce the risk of loose contacts.
Step 3: Mount and Connect the Fixture
Attach the fixture’s mounting bracket to the ceiling box, then connect matching wires (black to black, white to white, ground to ground) with wire nuts. Secure the canopy to the mounting bracket and install the bulb and shade. Restore power at the breaker and test the light.
When There Is No Ceiling Fixture Box: Installing an “Old Work” Ceiling Box
For the smaller fluorescent light above our sink, there was no fixture box—only a hole with wires. To install our new glass pendant we used an “old work” ceiling box designed to be installed into existing drywall. Unlike “new work” boxes that attach to framing before drywall is installed, old work boxes clamp to the drywall with wings that flip out and hold the box tight against the sheetrock.
These boxes are not ideal for heavy fixtures, but they can reliably hold lightweight pendants when used correctly. Ours held up well for years until we later remodeled and replaced the fixture with a recessed light.
Step 1: Confirm Power Is Off
Turn off the breaker feeding the light before continuing.
Step 2: Mark the Location
Use the box template to mark the hole placement on the ceiling. Make sure the existing wires will come out through the center of the opening.
Step 3: Cut the Hole
Cut the drywall opening with a drywall jab saw or keyhole saw and remove the drywall piece. Keep the hole just large enough for the box lip to rest on the ceiling surface.
Step 4: Feed Wires Through the Box
Push the wires through the box’s opening and trim them to length. Verify the power is off before handling the wires.
Step 5: Secure the Box
Insert the box into the hole and tighten the face screws. The wings will swing out and clamp the box to the drywall.
Step 6: Mount Your Fixture
Connect the fixture wires, secure the canopy, turn the breaker back on, and test the light. For lightweight pendants this setup is usually fine; for heavier fixtures, anchor to a joist or use a support brace.
After both fixtures were installed we primed and painted the patched ceiling areas in a flat, neutral white to blend with the existing trim. The refreshed ceiling made the whole kitchen look cleaner and brighter. We chose LED bulbs for energy savings and long life, and they give a warm, natural glow without frequent replacements.
Removing the fluorescent lights and updating the fixtures was a relatively simple upgrade that made a big visual difference. If you plan to do the same, prioritize safety by turning off power at the breaker, use the right box for your ceiling condition, and, when in doubt, consult a professional electrician.
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