How to Paint IKEA Kitchen Cabinets Step by Step

We’ve painted kitchen cabinets before and installed Ikea kitchens before, but combining the two—painting Ikea cabinet fronts—was a new challenge for us. Despite initial doubts about painting laminate or lacquered factory finishes, the result exceeded our expectations. The process was straightforward, required no paint sprayer or specialized equipment, and the finish has held up well to daily use.

After about a month of everyday use, the painted cabinets are still looking great. They’ve seen scratches, scrubbing, and the wear-and-tear of family life with kids, yet there are no noticeable dings or chips. They maintain an even, smooth appearance similar to factory-painted surfaces, so here’s how we achieved that consistent coverage without specialty tools.

Before the step-by-step instructions, a bit of background: we swapped our old cabinets to maximize storage on the back wall of this small kitchen. The previous cabinet frames were bulky, which wasted space around drawers and doors. Replacing them with Ikea fronts gave us notably more usable storage and a cleaner, more efficient layout.

Why Did We Redo Our Kitchen With Ikea Cabinets?

Our goal was to open up storage and make drawers more functional. The old design had thick framing that limited usable drawer space—one drawer was barely wide enough for a single olive oil bottle. By switching to Ikea VEDDIGNE fronts and reconfiguring the layout slightly, we gained deeper, wider drawers that can actually hold useful items upright and make daily cooking easier. Ikea’s modular systems also offer accessories and inserts that improve organization, which boosted our kitchen’s efficiency significantly.

Beyond functionality, we wanted a custom color. We loved the mauve tone from our previous cabinets (Artsy Pink by Sherwin-Williams) and wanted to recreate that feel. Ikea doesn’t offer that shade, and ordering custom paintable fronts was significantly more expensive. So we decided to paint the Ikea fronts ourselves, using modern primer and paint products that bond well to lacquered surfaces.

Tools & Materials For Painting Ikea Cabinets

We used a low-tech, low-mess approach with hand rollers and brushes. For this size project the list is simple and achievable for most DIYers:

1. Sandpaper or sanding block (120–220 grit)
2. Tack cloths to remove fine dust
3. Paint: a durable enamel trim paint (we used Sherwin‑Williams Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel, satin)
4. Primer for all surfaces (we used Zinsser Bulls Eye 1-2-3)
5. Small 4″ or 6″ foam rollers, a roller tray, and a small angled brush
6. Painter stands or tripods to hold doors while painting
7. Drop cloths to protect your work surface
8. Ikea VEDDIGNE door and drawer fronts
9. Optional: painter’s tape and liquid deglosser for very greasy or glossy surfaces

An electric sander will speed up the sanding step, but use caution around edges and corners so you don’t sand through the factory surface.

Step 1: Prepare Your Cabinets

If you’re painting before assembly, lay everything out on a dropcloth. If you’re painting installed doors, remove all doors and drawer fronts. Clean surfaces to remove grease and oils; a liquid deglosser can help with heavy residue.

Step 2: Rough Them Up With Sandpaper

Lightly sand the surface to create tooth for primer and paint. Start with a fine grit (around 220) and, if needed, move to 120 for more aggressive scuffing. The goal is to dull the finish, not remove it completely—this preserves the moisture protection of the underlying MDF.

Step 3: Remove Sanding Dust

Wipe each piece with a damp cloth, then a tack cloth to remove fine dust. This ensures primer bonds to the cabinet surface, not a layer of particles.

Step 4: Prime the Backs

Prop doors up on painter stands or lifters and prime the backs first so you won’t risk marking the painted fronts while flipping. Use a small foam roller for a thin, even coat of primer and allow it to dry fully—about four hours for most primers.

Step 5: Paint the Backs

Apply two thin, even coats of paint with a fresh roller. Our process for each door back was: paint the flat surface, roll the vertical sides gently to avoid drips, then roll the flat surface again with parallel overlapping strokes. Two thin coats are better than one thick one for durability and appearance.

Step 6: Second Coat and Curing

Let the first coat dry fully—overnight is ideal—then apply a second coat. After the second coat, allow at least 24 hours of drying and preferably 48 hours of curing before handling or installing. Adequate curing time is crucial to avoid dings or scrapes.

Step 7: Flip and Repeat for the Fronts

After the backs have cured, flip the doors and repeat the sanding, priming, and painting steps for the fronts and edges. Take care on thin edges to avoid paint build-up that could create a ridge once flipped.

Step 8: Paint Visible Cabinet Boxes

Use the same sand/prime/paint method on any visible cabinet box parts: filler pieces, toe kicks, and face frames. Leave interior cabinet surfaces white if you prefer. A small foam roller and a short-handled brush help with tight spots.

Tip: Consider Drilling Hardware Holes Early

We drilled hardware holes between coats while the doors were installed for countertop templating. Doing this before the final coat gave us confidence that any drill slips or scuffs could be covered by the last paint layer. If you prefer, wait until after the final coat is fully cured.

Step 9: Install and Enjoy

Once everything is installed and fully cured, your painted Ikea cabinets should handle normal wear and tear without special treatment. The key to a lasting finish is proper prep and adequate curing time. Our project took about a week of work and waiting, but the result is a custom-looking kitchen at a fraction of the cost of custom fronts.

More Resources

We filmed both a short walkthrough and a detailed step-by-step video while painting these doors, which demonstrates the full process and the techniques described above. We’ll continue to update this post as we see how the finish wears over months and years. For now, we’re happy with the durability and the custom look we achieved—and we plan to use the same method for the upper cabinets next.