That’s right — you can call me T-Boz. Let’s talk about the new shelf in our laundry room. It features a waterfall edge and a light, natural stain for a butcher-block look. This was a straightforward DIY using solid wood panels, stain, and a sealer to get that warm, textured finish.
We intentionally avoided our usual mocha stain after seeing rooms that mixed light cabinetry and tile with natural wood. The lighter wood adds texture and warmth without overwhelming the bright cabinets and tile. Ignore the missing trim and hardware in these photos — those finishing touches are still on our to-do list.
But first: appliances. Installing the washer and dryer wasn’t complicated — mostly reattaching what we removed during demo — but one tricky step was placing the washer pan and connecting it to the overflow drain. There aren’t many detailed tutorials showing that specific step, so here’s how we handled it.
A washer pan sits under a machine on an upper floor to catch leaks and direct water to an overflow drain. It’s not required by code in our area, and some contractors said it’s optional, but others recommended it for catching slow leaks you might otherwise miss. We decided to include one to avoid a potential disaster, and had the plumbers install the overflow when they moved the other hookups. It was included in the plumbing fee.
As we worked on flooring, we left clearance for the overflow pipe, adjusting the pipe height from the garage ceiling below so it wouldn’t stick up too far. When the plumber left the pan, he gave simple instructions for attaching it, but we first needed the exact appliance placement to position the pan precisely.
The washer could sit almost flush to the wall, but the dryer required extra depth for semi-rigid ducting. You should leave some slack in the duct so the dryer can be pulled out without yanking the vent out of the wall. That ducting ended up pushing the dryer about eight inches from the wall, which we expected and planned for when designing the shelf. We marked the final dryer depth on the floor with tape, then placed the washer so both machines lined up.
To cut a hole in the pan for the drain, the plumber suggested a simple trick: coat the pipe with a bit of mustard, press the pan down to mark the spot, then drill where the mustard left a circle. We traced that mark with a Sharpie so the scent wouldn’t linger. Once the pipe fit in the pan, the plumber recommended sealing it generously with silicone caulk. I felt better adding a marine-grade epoxy for a stronger, waterproof bond, then trimming the excess pipe flush with a rotary tool. After the epoxy cured, I finished with a generous bead of silicone to ensure a solid seal.
Hoisting the washer into the pan was a two-person job and more strenuous than glamorous. We also adjusted the dryer feet so the fronts and tops of both machines lined up. Getting them level felt like a small victory — we celebrated having a functioning washer and dryer again.
On cabinet hardware: after our Ikea cabinet install, several readers suggested soft-close add-ons. We later discovered the soft-close hardware had already been included in our order, which was an unexpected and welcome surprise. The drawers and doors are now far less noisy — a worthwhile upgrade.
Back to the shelf: we built it before tiling so we knew exactly where tile needed to stop. The shelf and counter came from two solid 2 x 4′ butcher-block-style panels purchased from a big-box store. One panel became the shelf (cut into two 9″ boards, joined with pocket screws), and the other became the counter (cut into two 18″ pieces and joined). I left the counter overhang slightly long until after the tile was installed so I could fine-tune the fit.
The waterfall edge was made by cutting the end of the shelf at a 45-degree angle, then reassembling it to create a vertical drop that appears continuous with the counter surface. The shelf is removable so we can access appliance hookups and is supported by four heavy-duty brackets, three of which are anchored into studs to prevent shaking during the washer’s spin cycle. After several large loads, the shelf has held up well.
We tested several stain options on scrap pieces. We pre-conditioned half of each sample, tried four stain colors, and applied varnish samples to compare the final look. Some finishes turned too yellow or too red, so we narrowed it down to Golden Oak as the best match for the space. We applied one coat of stain followed by three coats of Safecoat Acrylaq sealer, the same durable finish we used previously on a bathroom vanity top.
I’m really happy with the result — the shelf complements the light cabinets and tile and adds warmth without overpowering the room. It’s a little sparse right now, but we’ll be adding functional elements soon.
We still have trim, crown, and hardware to finish, and a glass door that leads to the future bunk room is in progress. We’ll also install a laundry sorter, a pull-out drying rack, and a wall-mounted ironing board on other walls, so more updates are coming.
Budget update:
- Framing (labor & materials): $360
- Electric (labor & materials): $400
- Plumbing (labor & materials): $375
- New dryer vent: $87
- New HVAC vent: $59
- Drywall & insulation: $298
- Drywall mudding: $84
- Sub-floor materials: $30
- Tiled floor: $451
- Ikea cabinets & under-cabinet lighting: $862
- Appliance re-install: $15
- Tiled marble accent wall: $281
- Shelf & counter (including stain testers & stain): $97
- TOTAL: $3,399
Two contractor estimates for framing, electrical, plumbing, and drywall came in at $3,250 and $5,000, so we’re pleased to be on the lower end after adding tile, cabinets, and the shelf. We’ve hit most major expenses and hope to finish under our self-imposed budget target for this room. Fingers crossed.