You can call me T-Boz. Let’s talk about the new shelf in the laundry room, which features a waterfall edge and a light, natural stain. It was a straightforward DIY using solid wood panels and a stain/sealer combination to create a butcher block–style look.
We moved away from our usual mocha stain after being inspired by rooms that mix light cabinets and tile with natural wood to add warmth and texture. In the wider view you can see how the lighter wood begins to balance the space. There are still a few finishing touches to install—filler, crown, toe kick, baseboard, and hardware—but those are on our to-do list along with some other details.
Before we get deeper into the shelf build, I want to cover installing the washer and dryer and the washer pan. This isn’t complicated, but it’s a step that doesn’t have a lot of detailed tutorials, so I’ll explain how we handled it. A washer pan sits under a washer on an upper floor so a leak will be caught and drained instead of flooding the room below. It’s one of those preventive measures that can save a lot of headache, especially for slow leaks you might not notice right away.
In our area, a washer pan and overflow drain aren’t required by code, and opinions varied among the contractors and plumbers we consulted. Some felt a pan wouldn’t help in a major failure, while others recommended it for catching smaller leaks. We decided to add one and had the plumbers install it when they came to move the other hookups. The plumbers left instructions for attaching the pan, but first we had to mark the exact appliance placement so the pan would sit correctly.
We positioned the washer nearly flush to the back wall, but the dryer needed to sit further out to accommodate the semi-rigid ducting. Leaving some extra space behind the dryer makes it easy to pull the appliance forward without yanking the vent out of the wall. We measured the required setback and taped a reference line on the floor so the pan could be placed exactly where the washer would rest.
To mark the hole for the drain in the pan, the plumber recommended a simple method: coat the drain pipe with a bit of condiment, press the pan down to leave a mark, and drill where the mark appears. We marked the spot more clearly with a Sharpie before cutting. After fitting the pipe through the pan opening, the plumber advised sealing the joint thoroughly. I felt more comfortable using a waterproof epoxy to bond the pipe to the pan, letting it cure overnight, trimming the excess pipe so it was flush, and then also applying a generous bead of silicone to reinforce the seal.
Lifting the washer into the pan was a two-person job and required care to avoid scraping or tipping. We also adjusted the dryer feet so the fronts and tops of both appliances aligned and sat level. Once they were lined up, it felt like a small victory—our laundry appliances were back in place and working together.
Back to the shelf build: we made the shelf and counter from two solid 2 x 4′ wood panels. Each panel is 1.5″ thick and has a good butcher-block look. One panel became the shelf after cutting it into two 9″ strips and joining them with pocket screws; the other panel was split into two 18″ pieces and joined to form the counter. I left the counter’s overhang long until after the tile install so I could trim it to the perfect fit.
The waterfall edge was made by cutting the end of the shelf at a 45-degree angle and reassembling it so it wraps down the side. The shelf is removable for easy access to the appliance hookups, and it sits on four heavy-duty brackets anchored into studs so washer vibration won’t shake items off. We tested the shelf through several big loads and it has held up well.
We tested several lighter stain options on scrap pieces before choosing the final color. After evaluating samples of Ipswich Pine, Summer Oak, Wheat, and Golden Oak, we settled on Golden Oak as the best match for the room. We applied one coat of stain followed by three coats of Safecoat Acrylaq sealer, which we’ve used in the past with good water resistance and durability.
Overall I’m very pleased with how the shelf ties into the light, bright foundation of the cabinets and tile. The shelf is still a bit sparse while we decide on styling, but it’s a great starting point for adding function and character to the laundry room. We’ll also be adding practical features like a laundry sorter, a pull-out drying rack, and a wall-mounted ironing board on other walls of the room.
Here’s a budget update for the project so far:
- Framing (labor & materials): $360
- Electric (labor & materials): $400
- Plumbing (labor & materials): $375
- New dryer vent: $87
- New HVAC vent: $59
- Drywall & insulation: $298
- Drywall mudding: $84
- Sub-floor materials: $30
- Tiled floor: $451
- Ikea cabinets & under-cabinet lighting: $862
- Appliance re-install: $15
- Tiled marble accent wall: $281
- Shelf & counter (including stain testers & stain): $97
- TOTAL: $3,399
The contractor estimates we received for framing, electrical, plumbing, and drywall alone ranged from about $3,250 to $5,000. Given that we kept costs on the low end while adding tile, cabinets, lighting, and a custom shelf, we’re happy with the outcome so far. We still have trim, doors, and a few finishing touches to complete, including a glass door for the future bunk-room entry. Those remaining items should wrap up the last of the major expenses.