Monday’s backsplash post dove right into the middle of the project, so we wanted to rewind a bit and explain the process for anyone planning something similar. The first step was prepping the room: everything had to come off the counters so we had a clear, protected workspace.
Next we covered the counters with rosin paper from Home Depot. Our counter installer recommended it when we mentioned the backsplash project. Rosin paper is like heavy brown construction paper with a moisture barrier that prevents thinset drips from seeping through. For extra protection against sharp trowel corners we laid down cardboard, then taped the rosin paper over it with painter’s tape running right up to the wall.
With the counters protected, we planned tile placement. We chose to begin in the corner under the microwave because it felt like a discreet spot to learn the ropes. It was roughly three sheets wide in that area, which made it a comfortable place to start.
Not knowing how long tile cuts would take, we didn’t want our thinset batch to dry out while we fumbled with nippers. In practice that initial slow pace taught us something: it’s much faster to install as many full sheets as possible first and then backfill edges with cut pieces, even if that requires mixing a small fresh batch of thinset for those pieces.
We used a staggered pattern to help disguise seams. Alternating where seams fall prevents your eye from catching one long continuous horizontal line and helps the final grouted surface look more seamless.
When we were finally ready to apply tile, I mixed the thinset (we used a brand from The Tile Shop). Mixing thinset can be intimidating if you’ve had a past mishap with grout or mortar, so we checked the bag instructions carefully and reviewed a how-to video for technique. The ideal consistency is somewhere between toothpaste and pancake batter: it should hold together but still be loose enough to spread and fall slowly off your putty knife.
After mixing, we spread thinset on the wall using the flat side of a 3/16″ notched trowel. In tight spots I used a putty knife for better control. Once the thinset was fairly even, I held the notched edge of the trowel at about a 45-degree angle to create grooves. Those grooves give the tiles something to bite into and help ensure a solid bond.
The first tile sheet pressed into the wall was both terrifying and thrilling. We used a very thin scrap of wood as a spacer along the bottom so the tile would sit slightly off the counter, leaving room for caulk. You don’t want tile resting directly on the countertop; that tiny gap—about the thickness of a paint stick or a bit thinner—gives the caulk something to seal against and prevents stress on the tiles.
Because the counters and cabinets help keep things aligned, laying those first sheets went fairly smoothly. After the initial learning curve, we moved faster and, by the end of the day, had a solid stretch of tile up. We paused because we were exhausted, but the next morning we returned to the sink wall with renewed energy.
To avoid complicated cuts around the window, we removed the piece of molding under the window and planned to reinstall it over the finished tile for a clean, finished look. This time we were less rigid about planning every cut ahead of time: we removed full tiles where fixtures like the disposal switch would interfere, mixed fresh thinset as needed, and backfilled cut pieces as we progressed. That approach sped things up compared to the very cautious first day.
We wrapped up for the day when nap time ended and cleaned up, pleased to have one side finished. The window looks slightly off-center at the moment, but once we add open shelving to the stove wall there will be balanced space on either side. We’ll share how we plan to cap the exposed 14-inch strips of tile beside the window once we have photos to explain the detail.
The back wall should go more quickly for two reasons: we’re getting the hang of the installation process, and most of the back wall uses full tiles, meaning fewer cuts. Until then, we’re enjoying the progress. Penny tile may not be the fastest to install, but the visual payoff is big. We’ve been surprised by how much we love looking at it, especially at night when the tiles catch the light and give a glossy, almost wet-looking sheen. It elevates the white Corian counters and painted cabinets in a way we really like.
During installation we found penny tile relatively easy to nudge into alignment in the thinset, which helped hide seams. It can be a bit tedious to get perfectly even rows, but that patience pays off in the finished result.
We meant to make a how-to video and totally spaced on it, so that’s on the list for the next post. We still have a whole wall to tile, so there will be more opportunities to show how we spread thinset, scrape grooves, set sheets, and fine-tune alignment.
Late one night we managed to start on the back wall. Progress will be slow but steady; our goal is to finish by the end of the weekend. If you’re considering a penny tile backsplash: it can be time-consuming, but it’s not as difficult as it looks. With some patience and basic tools, it’s an achievable DIY project.