Monday’s backsplash post jumped right into the middle of the project, so we wanted to rewind a bit and explain our process for anyone thinking of tackling a similar job. The first step was prepping the room: everything came off the counters and the workspace was cleared.
Next we laid down rosin paper recommended by our countertop installer. It’s like heavy brown construction paper with a moisture barrier that prevents thinset from soaking through. We also placed cardboard over the counters for extra protection against sharp trowel corners, then taped the rosin paper down with painter’s tape up to the wall.
With the room protected, we planned our tile placement. We chose to start in the corner beneath the microwave because it felt like a low-profile, manageable spot to learn the ropes. In that area the tile sheets fit nearly three across, so it seemed like a good place to begin.
Not knowing how long tile cuts would take, we didn’t want to risk our thinset drying out while we fiddled with nippers. In hindsight, it’s much faster to apply as many full sheets as possible and then backfill the edges with cut pieces, even if that requires mixing a fresh batch of thinset for those pieces.
We used a staggered layout to disguise seams, alternating the placement so the eye doesn’t catch one continuous horizontal line. That helps the finished surface look more cohesive once grouted.
When it was time to set tile, I mixed the thinset (we used a brand from The Tile Shop). Mixing thinset can be intimidating—especially after we ruined a bag of grout in a previous project by misreading water ratios—so we followed the instructions carefully and checked a demonstration video to confirm the right consistency. The ideal thickness is similar to toothpaste or pancake batter: thick enough to hold but loose enough to spread and fall slowly off a putty knife.
We spread the thinset on the wall with the flat side of a 3/16″ notched trowel, using a putty knife in tight spots. Once the thinset was relatively even, we held the notched edge at a 45-degree angle and scraped to create grooves. Those grooves help the tiles adhere properly—especially important for small tiles like penny tile.
Pressing the first tile sheet onto the wall was equal parts terrifying and exciting. We placed a very thin scrap of wood against the bottom as a spacer to leave a small gap between the tile and counter for caulk. The gap should be similar to the spacing between the tiles so the tile doesn’t rest directly on the counter surface.
Installing penny tile along the counters was fairly straightforward because the surrounding counter and cabinets helped keep everything aligned. After a day of prep, laying the initial section took about an hour and a half. We stopped for the night exhausted, then returned the next day refreshed and ready to continue along the sink wall.
To make the area around the window neater, we removed the molding under the window so we wouldn’t have to make precise cuts there; we planned to reinstall the molding on top of the finished tile for a seamless look. Instead of planning every cut in advance, we set full sheets where possible and backfilled with cut tiles as needed, which sped the process.
Progress on that side went quickly, though we paused again when Clara didn’t nap long enough. We left the job tidy and took a moment to enjoy the work we’d completed. The window looks slightly off-center now, but once we add open shelving on the stove wall, there will be equal space on both sides and it will read balanced. We’ll explain how we’ll cap the tile beside the window in a future post with photos.
The large back wall will be the biggest challenge: lots of surface area, but mostly full tiles, so fewer cuts. We’re getting more comfortable with the technique and expect it to move faster as we go.
We love how the penny tile looks—especially in low light when the surface seems to gleam. That sheen complements our white Corian counters and painted cabinets. We can’t wait to grout, finish the edges, and replace the dishwasher once the flooring is installed beneath it.
Penny tile takes time, but the results are worth it. You can slide sheets slightly in the thinset to align rows and hide seams, which helped us keep even lines without too much fuss. If you’re wondering whether you can do it: yes. It’s slower than some tile types, but it’s not one of the hardest projects we’ve tackled. With patience and basic prep, it’s very doable.
We originally planned to make a how-to video of the thinset spreading and tile-setting process and forgot to film—so that’s definitely coming next time. For now, we’ll keep inching along and hope to have the entire backsplash completed soon.